If you were to ask me to describe the ideal farm of this moment, my peasmaker of the week, the organic food paradise Quinta do Arneiro, comes pretty close.
(Please note that this text is translated by Open AI. I write my all my peas in Dutch)
Quinta do Arneiro, owned by peasmaker Luisa Almeida, is an organic farm located in Azueira, just an hour from Lisbon. The farm has been in the family since 1967 and was originally a monoculture pear farm with 30 hectares of Rocha pears. In 2007, Luisa decided to leave her bookstore behind and take over the farm from her father.
Luisa learned early on about the challenges of the pear market, where the yield depends on weather conditions and market prices, and you often only know the results of your work a year later. She observed that farmers, due to their limited bargaining power, often end up at a disadvantage. Luisa decided to make it her mission to change that perception and show that food and farming have value.
In 2011, driven by this mission, Luisa decided to give the farm a completely different direction—focusing on more collaboration with nature, cultivating products with a compelling story, and selling them through direct distribution channels. This way, she could maximise the value and retain control over margins and influence. To navigate this transformation, Luisa sought inspiration from Riverford farms in the UK, which remains a significant influence on her quinta to this day.
Now, in 2024, the old pear farm is unrecognisable. It has transformed into 28 hectares of seasonal and organic vegetable and fruit cultivation in open fields and greenhouses. The farm’s own brand and distribution channels are well-established. On weekends, the harvest is sold at markets in Lisbon and Cascais, and 850 vegetable boxes are delivered weekly in the region. The farm has a beautiful on-site store where vegetables and fruits are sold, and a sourdough bakery was added last year.
With the entire chain under their control, practically nothing goes to waste. Surplus from the boxes finds its way to the markets, and less visually perfect produce from the store and remaining market stock are turned into sauces, soups, jams, and other delicious items in their own production kitchen. All of this, of course, requires a significant amount of labor, with 36 people working on the farm, nearly all in permanent positions. I join the diverse team in harvesting broccoli, planting lettuce, and (Dutch!) strawberries. I quickly feel at home in the group, experiencing not only camaraderie but also a strong sense of responsibility.
Upon reading all of this, you might think: this masterpiece is complete. However, Luisa has a keen eye for beauty, and her masterpiece can always be enhanced. Rest is unfamiliar to her. I see her buzzing around from one place to another during the days I work with her, and finding a moment with her is not easy. Yet, her boundless ambition has turned this place into an inspiring food paradise.
When I ask Luisa about the future of her farm, she is clear. The transition from a conventional monoculture to a diverse organic horticultural business is just the beginning. Luisa anticipates that the current form of Quinta do Arneiro will eventually become unsustainable. Water scarcity will become a global issue, especially in Portugal. Therefore, Luisa is now experimenting with her son Duarte on a hectare of agroforestry, which they believe is the production method of the future. Not a densely grown food forest, but one with ample space for vegetable cultivation.
And because Luisa is always thinking about how her life’s work can become even more beautiful, she has one more dream: her own school. Not for children, but for adults. So that even more people can learn and experience how valuable and beautiful our food is.
Can you help Luisa?
On the grounds of Quinta do Arneiro, there is a beautiful restaurant for which Luisa is looking for a new operator who wants to cook with all the delicious produce from the land. Do you know someone or are you that person? Let her know!
